Overdriven fluorescent light

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Overdriving a fluorescent lamp is a method of getting more light from each tube than is obtained under rated conditions. It involves taking the light fixture apart and rewiring the insides.
ODNO (Overdriven Normal Output) fluorescent tubes are generally used when there isn't enough room to put in more bulbs to increase the light. The method is effective, but generates some additional issues.
This technique has become popular among aquatic gardeners as a cost effective way to add more light to their aquariums. While power compact fluorescent lights cost upwards of $60-100 in the US, a twin bulb ODNO light can be set up for $30.
Caution: this article describes techniques some of which are not entirely safe to implement, and the techniques described should not be implemented by anyone unable to verify their specific design is safe.
Contents
1 Terminology
2 Ballasts
2.1 Electronic
2.1.1 Higher power ballast
2.1.2 Parallel ballast outputs
2.2 Magnetic
3 Filament current
4 Light output
5 Safety Concerns
6 Disadvantages
7 Performance
8 See also
9 External links
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Terminology
Tube drive is described as 1x, 2x, 3x or 4x. However this is not a measure of the power consumed, but rather comes from the practice of parallelling anything up to 4 ballast outputs. 4x operation is in the region of twice rated power.
Ballasts
Electronic ballasts are usually used for this as they use regulation, protection and current sharing circuitry, enabling them to work in some poorly designed lighting configurations.
Electronic
There are 2 main methods of overdriving with electronic ballasts:
Higher power ballast
The ballast is replaced with a higher rated power ballast, and the circuit tweaked to reduce filament current back to normal value.
This is a relatively safe and reliable method, but overdriving by any method brings several safety issues that must still be addressed.
Parallel ballast outputs
This parallels the outputs of a multi-tube electronic ballast with current limiting.
This approach brings reliability issues, and with ballasts lacking current limiting also fire risk issues, but is popular nonetheless.
Each electronic ballast normally drives either two or four tubes. The ballasts are wired with their outputs in parallel such that a normal two-tube ballast drives a single tube; a four-tube ballast drives either one or two tubes. This re-wiring increases the amount of current the ballast will supply each tube, resulting in increased light output.
Usually extra ballasts are put into the fixture and wired to the sockets the original ballast is no longer powering. For instance, a four-tube fixture with a ballast re-wired to drive two tubes will have a second ballast similarly wired to drive the other two sockets.
The reasons paralleled electronic ballasts work are:
recent US ballasts use current mode programmed control to limit their output (based on legislation for energy efficiency passed in 1992 in the United States), which causes current sharing
the ballasts usually use a resonant output stage, causing synchronisation and quite good isochronation of the 2 or more ballasts.
Identical ballasts are always used when parallelling. Parallelling of ballasts with different design frequencies or starting methods would be a recipe for failure and fire.
Magnetic
Magnetic ballasts also work well, but they lack the inbuilt control and protection of their electronic counterparts, so an ill designed circuit is more likely to destroy ballast or tube. Correct design and wiring is necessary.
The 2 methods used are use of a single higher power ballast and parallelling ballasts. Paralleled magnetic ballasts require correct connection polarity to avoid ballast destruction.
Filament current
Most fluorescent lighting ballasts deliver filament current to preheat the tube before striking. Higher power ballasts (whether single or paralleled) deliver higher filament current, which cause premature tube failure and risk of glass shattering in use.
Some filament current should therefore be shunted away from the tube filaments to avoid filament overheating, with consequent safety risks. This is done with any of:
power resistors across each filament (for any ballast type)
in switch start ballasts, with an additional inductor ballast in series with the starter to reduce current to normal during starting.
As above but using a capacitor for this. But this generates design issues beyond most users, and is not to be tried without addressing the issues in the design first. Failure to take heed of this is liable to cause a fire. (See safety section.)
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